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Muztagh Tower

Coordinates: 35°49′36″N 76°21′42″E / 35.82667°N 76.36167°E / 35.82667; 76.36167
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Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower in 2004
Highest point
Elevation7,276 m (23,871 ft)[1]
Ranked 90th
Prominence1,710 m (5,610 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°49′36″N 76°21′42″E / 35.82667°N 76.36167°E / 35.82667; 76.36167[1]
Geography
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Karakoram
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور (Gilgit Baltistan)
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Southern Xinjiang
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور (Southern Xinjiang)
Map
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Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Pakistan
India
China
Gasherbrum V
48
Gasherbrum V
Rimo III
Rimo III
Apsarasas Kangri I
Apsarasas Kangri I
Diran
Diran
Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
K6
K6
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Crown Peak
Crown Peak
Baltoro Kangri
Baltoro Kangri
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Sherpi Kangri
Sherpi Kangri
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ghent Kangri
Ghent Kangri
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Sia Kangri
Sia Kangri
K12
K12
Malubiting
Malubiting
Teram Kangri I
Teram Kangri I
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri II
Saser Kangri II
Mamostong Kangri K35
Mamostong Kangri K35
Skyang Kangri
Skyang Kangri
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Saser Kangri I, K22
Saser Kangri I, K22
Batura III
Batura III
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Masherbrum, K1
9
Masherbrum, K1
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
8
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
7
Distaghil Sar
Gasherbrum IV, K3
6
Gasherbrum IV, K3
Gasherbrum III, K3a
5
Gasherbrum III, K3a
Gasherbrum II, K4
4
Gasherbrum II, K4
Broad Peak
3
Broad Peak
Gasherbrum I, K5
2
Gasherbrum I, K5
K2
1
K2
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:Kanjut Sar14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascent6 July 1956 by a British team
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb
Muztagh Tower
Simplified Chinese慕士塔格塔峰
Transcriptions

Muztagh Tower (Urdu: مز تاغ ٹاور), also Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: icy mountain), is a mountain situated in Baltoro Muztagh, which is a segment of the Karakoram range. It straddles the border of the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. Muztagh Tower is located between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.[2]

Early prominence

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Vittorio Sella's photograph of the Muztagh Tower, which was to inspire the first ascent

The Mustagh Tower gained attention through a photograph captured by Vittorio Sella during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. The picture was taken from the upper Baltoro, from a vantage point located due southeast of the mountain. In this photograph, the twin summits of Mustagh Tower appeared perfectly aligned, giving the mountain the appearance of a slender tooth and making it seem extremely impregnable. This image was featured in a book on mountaineering in 1941 with the caption "The Last Citadel".[3]

First and second ascents

[edit]

Nearly five decades after Vittorio Sella's photograph was taken, in 1956, his image served as inspiration for two separate expeditions that raced to achieve the first ascent of Mustagh Tower. Interestingly, both teams discovered that the mountain's routes were less steep than what Sella's photograph had suggested.[4] The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, approached the peak from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side and successfully reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge on July 6.[5][6] They achieved this feat five days ahead of the French team, consisting of Guido Magnone, fr:Robert Paragot, André Contamine, and Paul Keller, who climbed the mountain from the east.[7] François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.[8]

Notable ascents and attempts

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A lower summit, 7,180 m (23,560 ft) was first climbed in 1984 by the northeast ridge.[citation needed]

  • 2008 On 24 August 2008, the Northeast Face was climbed by two Slovenian alpinists, Pavle Kozjek and Dejan Miškovič. They bivouacked on the crest after 17 hours of climbing. They decided not to go to the summit because of strong wind. Just after they started descending, Kozjek fell to his death.[13]
  • 2012 On the day of 25 August, 56 years after the day when the first man climbed to the top of this mountain, three Russians made an ascent by the centre Northeast Face. Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko and Alexander Lange reached the top and made a new route. The ascent lasted for 17 days.[14][15]

See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ a b c Prominent Karkoram peaks on peaklist.org; Peakbagger reports 7,273 metres elev. and 1,707 metres prom.
  2. ^ "Muztagh Tower - Peakbagger.com".
  3. ^ Ullman, James Ramsey (1941). High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering. J. B. Lippincott Co.
  4. ^ Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. p. 66. ISBN 978-0-340-66007-2.
  5. ^ Hartog, J.H. (1956). "The climbing of the Muztagh Tower". The Alpine Journal. 61: 253–270.
  6. ^ Patey, Tom (1971). One Man's Mountains. pp. 135–147. ISBN 0-575-01358-3.
  7. ^ Magnone, Guido (1957). "The Muztagh Tower". Himalayan Journal. 20: 40–50. Retrieved 4 February 2020.
  8. ^ Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989, ISBN 978-0-898-86238-6, pp. 117-118.
  9. ^ Duff, Mal (1985). "The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower" (PDF). The Alpine Journal. 90: 74–76. Retrieved 2011-04-13.
  10. ^ Greig, Andrew (1985). Summit Fever: The Story of an Armchair Climber on the 1984 Mustagh Tower Expedition. Hutchinson. ISBN 0-09-162060-0.
  11. ^ Kropp, Göran; Lagercrantz, David (2000). Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey. Discovery Channel. ISBN 1-56331-936-5.
  12. ^ Nunn, Paul (1991–92). "Karakoram 1990" (PDF). The Alpine Journal. 96: 241.
  13. ^ "Interview with Dejan Miškovič (slovene language)". Sport1. 2008-09-12. Archived from the original on 2009-03-01. Retrieved 2008-09-16.
  14. ^ "Risk.ru - Музтаг Тауэр 2012. Экспедиция ФАиС г.Москвы. Вершина!!! (russian language)". Risk.ru. 2012-08-25.
  15. ^ "Short film about ascent (on english)". Archived from the original on 2013-07-30.